Featured Books
Courtesy of...
THIS MONTH's FOCUS (click an image to see an excerpt from the book)
Accidents Happen: Lessons From 2001's Mountaineering Accident Report
There are many sources for
learning about basic safety guidelines in the mountains. Here are a few
of the reminders that come out of this year's
reports:
* Climbers are advised to collect as much information about their intended route as possible before setting out to ensure that they have the skills and equipment to finish the route. The information in a guidebook is not sufficient in many cases. Other information sources include alpine journals, other climbers, park wardens/rangers, and even the internet.
* All climbers should remember that rescuers put their lives at risk each time they respond to a call for help from a mountain-side.
* Test all holds on any rock that has cracks or evidence of loose rocks - no matter what the size.
* Be cautious of gaining altitude too quickly.
* Never underestimate chance: use ropes and equipment properly when climbing.
* No matter what level of hike you are on, bring sufficient clothing for an overnight stay.
* Consider carefully before exceeding your abilities and physical condition.
* Ultimately, in the immortal words of Don Whillans, "The mountain will always be there; the trick is to make sure you're still there, too."
If you have knowledge of a climbing accident, please report it to the Editors [of Accidents]. By doing so, you may become part of the process of preventing someone else from suffering the same mistake.
Adapted from "Accidents in North American Mountaineering 2002." Edited by John E. Williamson and Nancy Hansen, ©2002. Published by The American Alpine Club Press and distributed by The Mountaineers Books (www.mountaineersbooks.org).
Two stories from "Don't Get Sick: The Hidden Dangers of Camping and Hiking"
[story 1)
Ten Tips To Stay Healthy In The Backcountry
1. Wash your hands before preparing
meals and after you relieve
yourself.
2. Save a bandanna exclusively for drying your hands after a good
washing, or carry a small absorbent towel. Commercially available towels
that pack easily and absorb wonderfully are available in many outdoor
specialty stores.
3. Spare the group from exposure to your germs. Sneeze and cough into
your elbow, not into you hand. Remember, your hand is the modern backcountry
kitchen tool so keeping it as clean as possible is even more critical
when traveling with a group.
4. Do not share bandannas, toothbrushes, razors, water bottles, eating
utensils, and the like.
5. If you clean as much of the visible remains as possible out of your
cooking pot, put it into eating bowls, fill the pot with water, and put
it back on the stove or fire right away, cleaning water will be ready
by the time you finish consuming your wilderness repast.
6. Wash and let air-dry all community kitchen gear, and keep anyone
remotely suspected of illness out of the camp "kitchen".
7. Food carried in several small, well-sealed plastic bags has a better
chance of remaining intact and uncontaminated than food in one larger
bag.
8. On cold-weather trips when the temperature stays below 38ºF (2ºC),
your cooking gear will remain free from germ overpopulation if you allow
it to cool off rapidly and then bring your next meal to the boiling point
during preparation.
9. Disinfect all drinking water via water filtration, halogenation
(chemicals), or boiling.
10. Set up the latrine area at least 100 feet away from camp, in a
direction away from water sources and any trail. Carry a small resealable
plastic bag just for packing out soiled toilet paper.
Adapted from "Don't Get Sick: The Hidden Dangers of Camping and Hiking, 2nd Edition," by Buck Tilton and Rick Bennett, 2002. Published by The Mountaineers Books (www.mountaineersbooks.org).
[story 2]
Disinfecting Water
Long gone are the days when you could drop your exhausted body to the ground beside a sparkling flow of wilderness water and plunge your face into the cold rush for a drink. Pathogens inhabit, to some degree, most of the world's water. And, unless you are willing to risk gut-ripping misery, it is important to carry some means of water disinfection on wilderness trips.
There are three proven ways
to guarantee your backcountry water is safely
disinfected: boiling, treating it with halogens, and filtering.
Boiling
The rule is very simple: Once the water is hot enough to produce one rolling
bubble, it is free of organisms that will cause illness - worldwide and
up to at least 19,000 ft. above sea level. The reason: All of the time
it takes to bring water to a boil works toward the death of organisms
in the water. By the time water reaches the boiling point, it is safe.
Giardia lamblia cysts, for instance, die at approximately 122ºF.
Halogenation
Of chemicals that kill waterborne pathogens, both chlorine and iodine
have been proven effective, given enough of the chemical and enough time.
Halogens are generally more convenient and faster than boiling water when
you consider lighting the stove or building the fire, but they cost more
and cannot be guaranteed to work as effectively.
The contact time and concentration of halogens necessary to kill most bacterial and viral pathogens is easily achieved in the field - but what of those pesky protozoa? Giardia lamblia in the adult active form is mostly sensitive to halogens; the quiescent oocyst form is moderately resistant to halogens. The pathogen Cryptosporidium parvum, on the other hand, in its common oocyst form in surface waters is very resistant to halogens even at high concentrations. Do not trust a halogen to rid your water of Cryptosporidium.
Virtually all surface water contains Crypto from time to time. If your water treatment is only halogens, you remain at risk. The good news is that filters and heat can work against Crypto if applied correctly.
Filtration
Water filters physically strain out some of the organisms and contaminants
in water that could cause disease. The effectiveness of filters varies
greatly from one that removes only relatively large particles such as
Giardia lamblia to one that removes virtually everything removable. Viruses
are too small to be filtered out, but some filters kill large numbers
of viruses with iodine from resins on the filter as the water passes through.
Filtered water looks "clean," but the purity of the water depends on the specific filter. Read the claims of a filter carefully before your purchase. They are available in a wide variety of costs, shapes, and sizes. Filtration, in general, costs more but offers the quickest route to safe water.
Machines can break down. Matches get wet. Iodine tablets can be lost. But don't you be without drinking water. A backup water disinfection plan may be your safest plan of all.
Adapted from "Don't Get Sick: The Hidden Dangers of Camping and Hiking, 2nd Edition," by Buck Tilton and Rick Bennett, 2002. Published by The Mountaineers Books (www.mountaineersbooks.org).
Avalanche Safety for Skiers & Climbers, 2nd Edition
Recognizing Avalanche Terrain
When traversing snow in any kind of activity, it's important to recognize that some types of terrain are safer from avalanches than others. Avalanche terrain is defined as any area close enough to steep slopes to become part of the track or deposition zone of an avalanche. 10 terrain features to watch for are:
* Steep straight slopes are
obviously potential avalanche
slopes.
* The rounded top to a peak or ridge on a convex slope can be
the trigger zone for slab avalanches. The safest path is above the crown
line.
* Concave slopes are safer than convex slopes. When
traversing the safe-looking flat bottom part of the slope, watch for soft
slab and depth hoar which may not support the snow above if disturbed.
* Terraces tend to prevent avalanching until later in the
season when snow fills them in to form a continuous slope. Early in the
season, slides that are retained by the terrace can bury a fallen skier,
so use caution.
* Bowls with rounded concave sides and straight slopes are
among the most dangerous terrain traps. Stick to ridges where possible.
* Steep gullies form natural deposition zones for slab and
natural chutes for loose falling snow. There is usually little warning
of the avalanche coming and often there is no escape.
* Wide, gently-angled ridges offer the safest route of travel.
Watch for cornices, shelves of unsupported snow.
* Cirques are amphitheaters ringed by peaks and ridges and can
be the scene of extensive slab avalanching, the fracture line traveling
rapidly round the whole cirque and releasing large volumes of snow, making
escape virtually impossible.
* Canyons and gorges are natural depositories for avalanching
snow. Ask yourself what kind of slopes feed in from above? How much snow
is on them and is it stable?
* Even on flat ground consider the shape and length of runout
zones in the event of an avalanche occurring. Keep well away from steep
slopes when hazard is high.
Be alert for any signs of previous activity and consider where the debris from an avalanche will end up. This will allow you to avoid potentially dangerous areas completely or to pick a route which reduces the risk to the minimum.
Adapted from "Avalanche Safety for Skiers & Climbers, 2nd Edition," by Tony Daffern, ©1992. Published by The Mountaineers Books (www.mountaineersbooks.org).
Tips for Hiking in Snowshoes
We all know how to walk. There's
no secret there, but walking with snowshoes requires a different technique.
The surface of snow is inconsistent and snowshoes are longer, wider, heavier,
and more unwieldy than our normal hiking boots. Here are 10 tips to get
you started on winter
hikes:
* When traction is poor or your position is precarious keep your movements gentle and flowing.
* Don't look down at your feet; you'll adjust to the snowshoes faster and avoid overhanging branches by keeping your eyes up.
* Take a longer, slower stride than normal, centering your weight over each foot as you step.
* An ice ax is useful on hills to make sure you don't overbalance.
* Ski poles can help to propel you along and relieve some of your weight, preventing leg-strain.
* To save energy, try the rest step, a momentary pause between steps. After thrusting and plopping each snowshoe forward, pause on straightened leg and relax your thigh muscles.
* If you have a partner, take turns breaking trail.
* Hike in switchbacks when the incline is too steep to kick step.
* When heading downhill, keep your body straight up and relaxed. Balance directly over the foot, keeping your knees slightly bent.
* Be patient and aware.
Adapted from "Snowshoeing, 5th Edition" by Gene Prater and editing
by Dave Felkley, ©2002. Published by The Mountaineers Books (www.mountaineersbooks.org).
How to Choose A Backcountry Snowboard
Snowboards come in many different
variations. When leaving the resort slopes to try your glide on the backcountry,
you'll be more successful - and have more fun - if you have the right
equipment. Here are board design factors to
consider:
Length - Longer boards give more flotation and provide stability at high speeds, but are less maneuverable in tight spots and trees. Medium boards provide a blend of maneuverability in tight spots and flotation in deep snow. Shorter boards are lighter and allow good control for tight turns in technical terrain and areas with trees.
Width - Wider boards increase the surface area and give more flotation in powder. Narrow boards allow for tighter turns on more technical terrain.
Side cut - The arc in the side of the board mainly affects edge control and turning. A deeper side cut helps you to carve tighter, quicker turns. A shallow side cut is designed for bigger turns and speed.
Nose and Tail Scoop - A significant nose scoop is important in deep snow, to prevent the nose from diving. Tail scoop allows you to ride backward. The greater the nose scoop, the easier it is to keep the board floating in deep snow. But when the nose scoop is less, the effective edge is longer, which provides more stability on steep or icy slopes in technical terrain.
Flex - The pliability of the board. A softer flex allows for increased maneuverability in powder; a stiffer board is more difficult to turn, but offers greater stability on technical terrain. Often both are built into the boards, with a stiffer tail to give control and a softer nose for easier maneuverability.
Construction - Laminated boards are durable and easy to repair, but heavier. Cap construction is generally lighter and more responsive. Wood cores are firm, responsive, and durable. Foam cores are softer and more flexible, dampening vibrations better than wood, but are less responsive. Sintered bases hold wax well and are durable. Extruded bases are less expensive and easier to repair.
Consider your height, weight, and the backcountry terrain and snow conditions in which you most often ride. You can often try boards at shops or on-snow demos to get a feel for them first.
Adapted from "Backcountry Snowboarding" by Christopher Van Tilburg, ©1998. Published by The Mountaineers Books (www.mountaineersbooks.org).
[From "FREE-HEEL SKIING: TELEMARK AND PARALLEL TECHNIQUES FOR ALL CONDITIONS"]
Anything Goes in Free-heel Skiing
Free-heel is an inclusive term that points to the most essential difference between skiers who use alpine and skiers who use nordic equipment. Backcountry, cross-country, and telemark skiers and equipment are free-heel. Telemark skiing is about rebellion: do what works for you and stay away from restrictive dogma like that which, years ago, we resisted in the alpine world. Tele is a sport like climbing that you do for yourself, not for the benefit of others.
For those of you who like to
strap on your skis, ride the chair to the top of the mountain and ski
a straight line down a perfectly groomed slope, perhaps there's another
way of thinking. Picture sweating it up to the top on your own two feet
and coming down the mountain through uncharted territory swooping back
and forth, overcoming unforeseeable obstacles and conquering crazy slopes.
That's what the free-heel, telemarking style is
about: the unpredictability of skiing through the backcountry and finding
an alternative to the mainstream culture of ski resorts.
When author, Paul Parker, asked free-heeling friends, "Is there a right way to telemark?", responses included: "What's cool about telemarking is that we're discussing a kind of freedom. You read the alpine magazines and they often discuss a kind of form that's useless for skiing backcountry snow"; and "The roots of telemark are an attitude of adventure, 'confronting the unknown' with what were once seen as inferior tools. For me, that's the right way to ski. Not a final form."
Adapted from "Free-Heel Skiing: Telemark and Parallel Techniques For All Conditions, 3rd Edition" by Paul Parker, ©2001. Published by The Mountaineers Books (www.mountaineersbooks.org).
